The drawing: ambergris
Ambergris

Ingredients · Amber & resins · dry-down

Ambergris tincture

Say itAM-bur-gris TINGK-chur

Soft, salty-sweet, earthy and tobacco-like, with a skin-warm animal glow.

What it is
Natural tincture from aged sperm-whale intestinal mass, found floating or beached on coasts worldwide.
When you smell it
Dry-down: hours later.
What perfumers do with it
Luxurious fixative that rounds, diffuses and humanises a formula, adding radiant skin-like warmth.
Worth knowing
Fresh ambergris smells fecal; years of sun and seawater oxidize its odorless ambrein into the prized scent.
Rules
Limited. Trade illegal in the US and Australia; legal in EU/UK.
Also called
Grey amber; ambre gris infusion

Not on the label of any of the 232 perfumes read so far.