The plate: birch (silver birch)
Planche XXIX · BouleauBirch (silver birch) · Betula pendula (syn. Betula verrucosa); note B. lenta, sweet birch

Ingredients · Leather & smoke · dry-down

Birch tar oil (rectified)

Smoky, tarry and phenolic, turning to sweet, oily Russian leather.

What it is
Natural oil from dry-distilled birch bark and wood (Betula pendula), redistilled.
Where it comes from
Russia, Eastern Europe
When you smell it
Dry-down: hours later.
What perfumers do with it
The historic Russian-leather note; smoky tar for leather, tobacco and campfire accords.
Worth knowing
Russia leather got its famous smell from birch-tar oil used to waterproof and finish the hides.
Rules
Limited. Only PAH-cleaned rectified grades allowed; crude tar carries carcinogens.
Also called
Birch wood pyrolysate; oleum rusci