Pinene

Say itPYE-neen

Fresh, sharp pine needles and turpentine with a cool camphor-woody, faintly earthy edge.

What it is: Natural material from two isomeric pine terpenes, isolated by fractional distillation of turpentine.
Where it comes from: also in rosemary, citrus peel and conifer oils
When you smell it: Top notes: when you spray it.
What perfumers do with it: Pine-forest freshness in conifer, herbal and citrus tops; also the feedstock for terpineol, camphor and linalool.
Worth knowing: Alpha-pinene is the most common terpene in nature, and turpentine is made mostly of the two pinenes.
Rules: Limited. EU label-named allergen since Regulation (EU) 2023/1545; IFRA and EU demand peroxide value under 10 mmol/L
Also called: pinene; alpha-pinene; beta-pinene; α-pinene; β-pinene; 2,6,6-trimethylbicyclo[3.1.1]hept-2-ene